bypass sewing (Q228): Difference between revisions

A sewing structure in which the thread in each gathering does not attach that gathering to all of the sewing supports on the spine, but only to a selection of them. Like all economies, there is a trade-off, in that the fewer the supports sewn around in each gathering, the quicker the sewing, but the weaker the structure. The process is also known as skip-station sewing (Spitzmueller). Bypass sewing has been recorded on a French inboard binding of the second decade of the sixteenth century, but does not become common until the 1550s (Pickwoad Onwards). After that time they come into widespread use across Europe, often, from the seventeenth century, in combination with multi-section sewing.